We dived under the city and onto the Metro, hopping off and into the suburbs where we found greater perspective of one of the greatest cities on Earth. Deemed the romantic capital, we did gaze lovingly into the distance as we uncovered places not on the tourist map. A dusty city shrouded in cigarette smoke and haute couture, surviving on espresso’s and rouge by the glass; there most certainly was an air of Je ne sais quoi.